Stir water, yeast, and ½ teaspoon sugar. Rest 5 minutes. Add remaining sugar, salt, and oil. Mix in flour 1 cup at a time, then mix 3–4 minutes. Dough may be sticky. Cover 15 minutes.
Knead on a floured surface a couple of minutes. Divide into 4 balls. Rest 15 minutes.
Roll each into an 8×8 square, then roll up tightly and stretch to 11–12 inches even thickness. Place on an ungreased sheet. Brush with water, cover, and rise 20–30 minutes.
Heat oven to 375°F. Brush with water again and add seeds if you want. Bake 18–22 minutes until deep golden. Cool on a rack.